We’ve been back home for a while now, and are back into an everyday routine. Having both found employment, there are no immediate plans for another multi-month trip, but we do find ourselves constantly looking back on the last year with no regrets and memories which will surely last our lifetime. Its been an amazing journey and we are glad we were able to share all our stories and photos with all of our followers through our blog.

We have compiled some of our experiences backpacking Asia, the Middle East and Europe into a 4 minute video. We hope you enjoy it.

originally published Jan 16,2011

Since being back home and settling into somewhat of a normal existence we have been busy planning our next long haul. When we speak of our plans to travel from Eastern Europe and into the Middle East the majority roll their eyes and with a puzzled expression say ” That sounds great, but I have no interest in that area of the world”.

I am brave enough to generalize and say the majority of Canadian tourists fall into two categories; the Western Europe traveler and the all inclusive beach destination traveler.While I may be slightly prejudiced towards the all inclusive experience I understand that it may be just what some people are looking for. On the other hand I have met many people who seem to envy the freedom an independent trip can offer and for those people I have written my recommendations based on ease of travel and the rewards which come with venturing away from the typical all inclusive resort.

3. East Coast, Australia

Difficulty – Extremely Easy

While the flight may be a deterrent for many of my country men, what awaits on the far side of the pacific is a friendly nation with some of the cleanest and pristine beaches on the planet. For those who fear living without their creature comforts of home, East Coast Australia is a great destination as everything from restaurants to hotels are exactly what one would expect in a developed nation and for those who speak fluent English communicating with locals is not an issue. Australia is surprisingly easy to travel with efficient public transport options or even better, amazing roads which make a self drive the optimal choice for beach hopping. There are next to no cultural obstacles to overcome with Aussies being extremely hospitable although for those looking for a budget trip, Australia is just about on par with Canada in terms of costs. Our recommendations include Byron Bay and Fraser Island although depending on the season can be overcrowded with Australian domestic tourists seeking a little sand and sun of their own.

2. Boracay, Philippines

Difficulty – Easy

Ever close your eyes and imagine sand so white it looks like its been bleached, surrounded by the calmest, warmest, turquoise water imaginable? If that sounds too good to be true its not. Boracay is like something out of a dream and is certainly a place both Lianna and I still continually fantasize about on a cold day. Sure its getting a little over developed but for someone used to an all inclusive resort the ridiculous selection of international food will certainly keep them in their comfort zone.

With shockingly friendly locals and a host of activities from SCUBA diving, sailing, kite surfing or just kicking back on the beach no one could ever describe the place as boring.

The beach itself is MASSIVE and accommodation choices range from top end to bungalows set back a bit from the beach for less than 15USD a night. A short flight from Manilla and a quick ferry make getting to the island not as simple as an airport pickup from an all inclusive but still very hassel free if a little time consuming.

1. Corn Islands – Nicaragua

Difficulty – Moderate ( need a little sense of adventure)

For anyone who may have wondered what the Caribean might have looked like had the massive resort companies like Sandals and Club Mead had just stayed away. Big Corn and Little Corn lie just off the coast of Nicaragua and may require just a little effort to reach but the rewards are so breath taking it may just be the most inspiring place you ever reach in your life. Big Corn has more development but still retains that laid back island vibe but the jewel is really Little Corn. A small village of tin houses is located in one corner of the island while a handful of cheap accommodation options and restaurants serving up plates of rice,beans, plantations and fresh lobster are located near the jetty.

The rest of the the island is a tangled network of foot trails leading to a few truly isolated beach side bungalows inlcuding Derek’s Place, a seriously chilled out place with family style meals and bungalows made of coconut palms. The island feels completely untouched and the days or even weeks can pass with wandering to a new beach each day or undertaking something a little more active such as inshore fishing and some really great SCUBA diving.

Of course if gorging yourself on cheap lobster, fresh fish, cheap rum or spending your days self driving from breath taking beach to breakt taking beach doesn’t sound like that something that may interest you, by all means book that resort and head off on another all inclusive holiday but for those looking for something with a little more independence, try it, I’m sure you won’t regret it.

Corn Islands

At 7:00am we boarded the chicken bus for Managua which took 3 hours from SJDS, grabbed a cab to Managua airport, flew 1.5 hr in the tiny plane to Big Corn, taxi to the dock, took the 1 hour ass-numbing panga ride to Little Corn and finally we arrived on Little Corn, our main reason for coming to Nicaragua.

After speaking to the people at Dive Little Corn we were told to get moving on the hike to Derek’s Place, as the accommodation we booked in advance was on the other side of the island and the sun was beginning to set. With backpacks and all we navigated through the village of Little Corn using the small glow of a shit flashlight bought in San Juan. Some locals finally steered us in the right direction and once in the dark jungle I breathed a sigh of relief to not be walking around a slummy area in the dark, unfortunately this is when Lianna’s anxiety began to kick in. It took us an hour and a half of wondering around in the jungle and defending Lianna from the giant crabs which were everywhere, to finally reach the beach on the far side where we found the hostel En Suenos. Once we found this landmark we knew to walk down the beach a kilometer and were grateful to finally find arrive at Derek’s Place. Waking up the next morning we were reminded of why we choose such a hard-to-get-to accommodation. We stayed our 6 nights there and enjoyed the pristine beach, hammocks and rum. The fact that there were no fans wasn’t a problem because we were on the windy side of the island. One night, however, there was torrential downpour along with ear splitting thunder and no wind, which brought a number of cockroaches and their friends to our usually spotless room. Needless to say we got about an hour of sleep that night.

Lianna was still getting over a head cold she picked up along the way, so we decided it would be best for her to obtain her PADI certification at the end of our time on Little Corn. The next two days were spent swimming, eating lobster, drinking rum and watching sunsets…it was very stressful. After a conversation with Chris, a fishing guide hired through Dive Little Corn, we decided to do some inshore fishing for Kingfish and Dorado (Mahi-Mahi) a few kilometers from the harbour. Our first hour was fish-less as the Kingfish didn’t seem to want to cooperate but Chris assured us our chances were still good. Chris had 25 years fishing experience and had worked all over from Alaska to Hawaii and had been working in Corn Islands for the last 6 months, we had a lot of confidence in him. With the sight of birds chasing down bait he told us to hang on tight because it was the Dorado pushing the baitfish towards the surface in reach of the diving birds. As promised, when we trolled past, the line went tight and the Dorado was on. After some large runs and huge leaps I landed my first Dorado ever which was estimated around 10 lbs. With the adrenaline going it was time to get back in there and after another pass by the birds I hooked another Dorado this time a small male. Next was Lianna’s turn. She found it difficult to land such a strong fish but after some strong runs the fish began to tire and she began to gain some line. A few minutes later and the fish was in the boat. Lianna was thrilled to release the beautiful fish back as we had kept the others to eat. By the end of it all Lianna landed 2 Dorado, and I landed 4 Dorado and a Jack including one large 15lb female Dorado. Despite some sea sickness Lianna experienced half way into the trip it very successful and completely worthwhile endeavor.

While Lianna was busy with her PADI course I did some spectacular dives around Corn Islands, the highlight being a trip to Blowing Rock, a rocky outcrop in the middle of nowhere. On our way to the dive site we were treated to a rare site, two huge loggerhead turtles mating at the surface! These turtles were massive and caused quite a stir on the surface, not wanting to disturb them we were shortly on our way again. I shared the boat with a couple from Texas, their three boys and their Catholic priest who were all diving together! Once we checked our gear and geared up it was time to descend. Our first dive was amazing with some close encounters with eagle rays, nurse sharks and a moray eel. The highlight of the dive was not necessarily the large things but the amazing rock formations which are up and down and a diver could easily become lost. The coral was also the healthiest I’ve seen and huge areas of elkhorn coral hid all kinds of little marine life. After an hour surface interval we were back in there swimming with the sharks and rays again. We saw some more gorgeous fish as well as a spiny lobster and some barracuda. On our way back I couldn’t believe our luck, a whole pod of dolphins began to jump around the bow of the boat for about 15 mins. It was something I will not soon forget. Another can’t miss dive, is to do one at night. Nothing is like the feeling of jumping into the water in the pitch black with just a flashlight. There were only 3 of us and the whole ocean. We spotted some HUGE barracuda and also a bonus spanish lobster, not to mention the bioluminescence was in full bloom which lit up the entire reef. After we surfaced it was smiles all around. The dives around Little Corn are not technical but the sheer health of the reef and small number of divers makes it worth a trip.

Lianna – First let me get it out there that I was pretty terrified of diving and the ocean in general. I had done my classroom portion of my open water at Mississauga Diving, which I do not recommend to anyone. These people were not very happy to be teaching in a landlocked Canadian city during winter and it came through in their teaching. Which brings me back to my terror of diving and Mississauga Diving helping to intensify that fear. When I first got to Dive Little Corn I was slightly put at ease when I met everyone there and realized how nice they all were. The ease was gone once we went in the ocean to begin going over some skills, and I was reintroduced to the world of breathing under water. I was still nervous when we finally went on my first open water dive to a coral reef 20 minutes off shore, and on the second dive I wasn’t feeling much better. When I got back to shore and told Nick I was enjoying myself he could tell I was still jumpy with the whole thing. The next day I went on my third and fourth (final) dives and got hooked once I started swimming alongside hundreds of bright fish, eagle rays, lobsters, and nurse sharks. It’s a completely different experience when you are drifting along the coral watching sea life happen all around you. The highlight of my dive experience, though, was seeing a turtle swimming only a meter or two from me, which made the whole thing seem that much more surreal.

I would recommend Dive Little Corn to anyone. They were truly one of the nicest group of people we’ve met, and my dive instructor Clint really made me feel comfortable and safe – something that all instructors should do.
Now that I’ve gotten a taste of real diving I can’t wait to see new and exciting things this coming year in Asia. It’s all Nick’s fault that I enjoy these new expensive things such as lobster and diving. He shouldn’t have introduced me to island life because I am already craving it again.

Our trip through Nicaragua has only worsened our intesifying travel bug that seems to have a stronghold on our lives right now.

After departing for Granada on a 2hr bus to Rivas, we were herded by the drivers along with another backpacking couple into a van for a 30 cent ride to San Jorge, the dock of our ferry. The ferry crosses the giant Lake Nicaragua to get to our destination of Isla Ometepe. Thankfully the boat was a comfortable ride, although Lianna faced round one of sea-sickness. Luckily she knows to bring Gravol everywhere with her.

Once we arrived at the dock and without any idea of accommodations we decided to pick the one hostel for which the food was recommended, Hacienda Merida ($20). Unfortunately this spot is located on the complete other side of the isolated island. Rather than slug it out on a 3hr bus ride we decided to spring for the cab ride (in hindsight a good idea as later on we heard the bus was running 4hrs late). After a long and bumpy ride on some awful roads, we arrived at a beautiful hostel located right underneath Volcan Maderas. The guide book was right and Hacienda Merida buffets were definitely something to look foward to each night with a little bit of everything, our favourite being the fried fish fresh from the lake. The lake front did not have a beach but the dock was fine for jumping off and the water was the temperature of a bathtub. Our first full day was spent just laying around, swimming when we felt like it and eating and drinking lots. This was definitely feeling like a vacation now. Merida was also a great place to meet other travelers and through our stay we met some interesting people from Australia, Canada, Germany, Holland and Sweden. Given that we were staying right under Volcan Maderas Lianna and myself were planning to hike to the summit the next day. The owner recommended reading all the info about it before committing to it, as it was apparently quite an arduous hike. Lianna still wanted to do it, so next morning we were to set off at 7am.

The Hike

We were up at 6am to get breakfast and get an early start on the volcano because the hike was planned to be 8-9 hours round trip. We met our guide at approximately 7am which was on time which was surprising considering no one there is ever on time. The hike started off by going through farmers fields of plantains and coffee. The trail progressed towards the thicker jungle and we could hear the calls of the howler monkeys from the tree tops which is very scary if you have never heard them before. After about 2 hours Lianna began to tire and because our guide didn’t speak English it was difficult to know how far along we were on the mountain. After some more time of walking Lianna began to find it too tiring to go much further and even though she pushed it as hard as she could our guide was able to communicate it was just half way and the next half was much much more difficult. Lianna was faced with a tough decision and felt she couldn’t go further but didn’t want to disappoint me but she made the very intelligent decision to return to the bottom.

Luckily, as we began to head down another group of three, two Aussies and a German, were heading up and the German guy was too exhausted to continue so our guide took Lianna and the German guy down while I still was able to continue my hike with the two Aussies. This made Lianna very happy as she was afraid I was going to be very disappointed. After another hour of extremely intense rock climbing and vine climbing I began to realize how smart Lianna’s decision was to turn back. It was another two hours of the most steep and slippery trail I have ever been on. Once at the top it was a very strange landscape of cloud forest and strange flora and fauna. We were able to see a wild capuchin monkey swinging from tree to tree. Once at the top there was no view as the top of the volcano was covered in cloud but we still had a sense of accomplishment, after a few quick pics we began to descend as none of us were really interested in hiking to the laguna. The trail down was much more intense than going up and we all fell due to the slick mud mulitple times, it was grueling. The most rewarding part was when we walked under a troop of howler monkeys who began to shout and shake branches at us for coming into their territory. That made the hike for me as it was the howlers who I had really hoped to see. We celebrated our hike (and half hike) that night with beers and birthday cake as it was one of the Canadian’s Birthday.

San Juan Del Sur

We had originally planned to stay on Ometepe one more night but since the majority of people we had befriended were moving on we decided there was not much else to keep us on the island and we didn’t want to go back to Granada like planned. We decided to go to the Pacific Coast for 3 nights in San Juan Del Sur.

San Juan Del Sur is known as Nicaragua’s principal tourist town, and there is an obvious gringo presence, but despite the reports of it being overrun with tourists, touts and real-estate hawkers we found the town and beach a pleasant place to spend a few days. The beach is a stretch of sand protected in a crescent shape bay dotted with lots of fishing boats. The town has plenty of restaurant and accommodation options, but the prices are a little more inflated than we had experienced throughout Nicaragua thus far. After a three hour bus ride, an hour ferry, and a quick 20 minute shared taxi we began to hunt for somewhere to stay. After being surprised by some of the luxury options we decided to stay at Costa Azul which had super clean rooms, A/C, and T.V. for 45 USD a night. The next day was spent soaking up the sun on the beach with the occasional dip in the ocean to cool off, SJDS was noticeably hotter than where we had been prior. Despite a lack of confidence that we would be able to do it from an awful experience I had in Thailand, Lianna and I booked ourselves for surf lessons for the next day. Once we rented our surf boards from Casa Oro, we were glad to see the Australian couple and two more Aussies we met on Ometepe were going to join us in the lesson. After arriving at Maderas Beach we recieved a 1hr lesson on land from our instructor. Now if you are taking a surf lesson you want your surf instructor to look like him our instructor, a perma tan, sun bleached hair, mid 40′s Peruvian who learned to surf in California by the same person who taught Kelly Slater ( if I understand his broken english correctly). When it was time to get in the water he had Lianna and myself up riding waves in about 10 mins. That was it for me – I was hooked. Over the next few hours I never returned to the group and spent the rest of my time trying to catch bigger and bigger waves. I had a few bad spills here and there, but the feeling was really addicting, I cant wait to go again. Lianna enjoyed herself too but opted for the small waves much closer to the beach so she could practice her popping up. The day was fantastic the only downside being that due to the increase in crime, the hostel recommended not bring any cameras so we have no pics to prove our success. By the end of it all we were sunburned, exhausted and STARVING! Due to several unpleasant experiences eating along the beach we decided to hit up this BBQ spot not far from the hotel the Aussies recommended. It was fantastic local food that was cheap and delicious and just down from Casa Oro. Best spot we ate in SJDS by far! It was early to bed for the long journey ahead the next day.

Our time in Nicaragua flew by and all of sudden we are sitting on a plane on our way home wondering how our time went by so quickly. Nicaragua was a fascinating place to visit and since neither of us had ever been to Central America before this was kindof like jumping right into the deep end. Despite a serious lack of Spanish we were able to navigate ourselves through Granada, Isla Ometepe, San Juan Del Sur, Managua before jumping on a plane and spending a week in the tropical paradise of Little Corn Islands.

After arriving in Managua, Nicaragua’s Capital, we hopped into a taxi for an hour trip to Granada – a colonial city that most tourists use as a base for exploring surrounding areas. After reading through the guidebooks about how many travelers come for a few days but stay for a few weeks, our expectations for this city were high, perhaps too high. Granada is a pleasant place to spend a few days and there are lots of places to stay and lots of places to eat, but we would not want to stay any longer than we did. There are many activities geared towards tourists, but most did not interest Lianna or myself. After checking in at Hotel La Pergola ($30), we decided our first night would be spent wandering around town and the beautiful main square where we went for a nice dinner. The next day we decided to go on a zip-lining canopy tour. It was definitely a very touristy choice, but this did provide some entertainment for the afternoon as we flew through the trees from platform to platform. By the end of it we were both happy we did it. That night it was time to pack up and plan our route to Ometepe.

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