After my trekking in Kalinga I had to back track to Bontoc to catch the next bus to Sagada. Sagada is definitely “on the tourist trail” but sees far fewer visitors than Banaue or Batad. Actually, when I first arrived I had to ask myself if this was the right place because barely anyone was around.
Sagada offers a chance to unwind in a cool pine forest setting complete with plenty of small restaurants decked out in a log cabin like motif serving up some backpacker food favourites. Unwinding is exactly what I came here to do and my first day there, I didn’t do much but read my new book The Road, which is awesome, and enjoy some more mountain coffee.
The next few days were similar although I did get out to stretch my legs on some pleasant little walks nearby. There were plenty of more adventurous activities on hand such as oodles of caves including one titled “The Cave Connection” which you have to pass through small holes to reach larger caves, but decided instead to just hang out and explore at my own pace.
During my few days there I was able to visit some of the hanging coffins Sagada is famous for which is a pretty unique site I must admit. If they can afford it, Appalai elders will request the sacrifice of 20 pigs and many more chickens for the right to have their body be placed in a coffin hanging on the limestone cliffs nearby. Interesting enough, the highlight of my time in Sagada came when I was strolling down the main road and met lovely Mrs. Masferre who was the wife of Mr. Masferre a famous photographer who used to work in the area. I was able to get a private tour of her home-turned photogallery showcasing her husbands work. From 1930-1952 he began documenting the local cultures and their customs for his fear was one day it would change and many traditions would be lost. He was right, but luckily his images live on and are some of the best I have ever seen. Some of my favourites include the local headhunters who display tattooed faces along with the actual act taking place!
While in Sagada I also had the opportunity to meet Jazz, a fellow traveler on a much longer journey than mine ( 2.5 years). When he asked where I was headed next and I told him of my recent plans to cross Burma off my list his eyes became a light. After 70 plus countries he had been to, he whispered that Burma was the most special and having just returned from a second trip, began to show me photos. It was only a few moments later than I was sold, having just booked my flight I will be headed to Burma March 27th and will catch the Buddhist New Year celebrations on April 13th – 17th. I’m very excited!
A few days later I boarded the long winding bus to Baguio which I am in now. The capital of the Cordillera, Baguio comes as a shock for the senses after spending so much time in the mountains. I’ll continue on my way towards civilization over the next few days to Manilla for when I fly out to Bangkok and get my visa’s arranged for my next adventure.
I’m glad you took some time to relax a bit, this was one blog I wasn’t feeling exhausted after reading. That was very coincidental that you met Mrs Masferre – I’d say that was very interesting for you. So I’m guessing these headhunters weren’t looking for people seeking jobs!
And what an unusual burial site, very strange indeed.
Do people today still want to be ‘hung’ on the cliffs? Cause I see there is a space there…
I can’t believe you are leaving the Philippines soon. Felt like we were there for so long I can’t believe you’re still there… I can’t wait to read about new destinations!
Hi Nick. Glad to see you’re still enjoying yourself and getting to see some very interesting places and people. Keep safe. Roman
Yea people are still hung there…as long as they can afford it because the cost of the animal sacrifice is really high. I think its just the occasional elder who requests this though.
Ah Nick, posted a comment just now asking what your plans were, but I see you’re off to Burma. James will be so jealous. He really wants to go! Enjoy…
Hi Nick. So glad to see your blog is still lup and running. Great to read your exciting and sometimes scary experiences. Wonderful photos. I was thinking, its no wonder the hangings coffins never caught on in the Western World, with land being so scarce and expensive. Maureen
When you are done in Burma, my friends would love to have you in Chiang Rai, Thailand. Let me know if you need their address again.
Glad to see your going strong, the crews still miss you in Albany and it seems you have left an indelable mark in many lives there. We continue to grow so remember when your tired of the whole world and just want a little “peace” of it.. your always welcome back.
Hey John,
Im so glad your still following my blog. Your really too kind with your words and I truly do miss Fort Albany with all my heart. Traveling is great but the experience I had up north was something that I am continually thinking back on and will continue to forever. It’s so great to know I would be welcomed back!
Hi Nick
I am in ore I have been watching and reading Lianna is to be commended for knowing she was ready for home. I have been so nervus for the 2 of you on occasion, but truly it is quite the feat. Wonderful photos your writings are stuff like we read in national geographic. Stay safe.
It’s been twelve days, Nick! Any chance of a new post?