We are near the end of our North India loop and before flying to Southern India for Christmas, our last stop was Rishikesh in the foothills of the Indian Himalaya. Getting there proved rather uncomfortable for us as we could not find any private buses from Chandigarh to Rishikesh or nearby Haridwar and were forced to pile onto a government bus bursting with passengers for the next 7 hours.
December is apparently high season in Rishikesh and not wanting to recreate our experience in Chandigarh we decided to book ahead. This was unnecessary, as compared to Rajasthan, the city was empty but that could be because many tourists come over Christmas and we were just a bit early. Even though it’s not high in elevation, Rishikesh is still a mountain town and climate definitely plays a roll when visiting. Our first night in town left us almost sleepless with an unforgiving wind coming through window cracks and we were shivering until well after breakfast. Our hotel generously gave us some seriously heavy blankets for the rest of our time though each night the wind could be heard howling at the door but we remained much more comfortable than our first evening.
Rishikesh is well known in traveling circles as the yoga capital of the universe but it was the Beatles who first put this small pilgrimage town on the north India circuit when they came with their spouses to study meditation and write ‘The White Album.’ The Maharishi ashram where they stayed can still be visited although it is abandoned and the forest is slowly taking over. After spending our first day re-cooperating from our relentless travel schedule, the following day we wandered around the ashram and searched for familiar references from some of their famous songs. We did come across some of the small meditation cells that Mia Farrow’s sister, Prudence, apparently locked herself in while meditating which inspired John Lennon to write “Dear Prudence” (according to wikipedia anyway).
Being the Yoga capital of the Universe it would be silly to come to Rishikesh and not practice some, and most hotels offer classes for 100rs twice a day. We did an evening session with Bhandari Swiss Cottages and shared the class with just one other person which offered plenty of one on one attention from the teacher. For anyone who is serious it would be wise to stay at the local ashrams and spend time doing a proper course, but a class or two of yoga is enough for me and I was happy to just relax for a few days in the spiritual setting of Rishikesh. Of course there are plenty of long term visitors who come to India on some form of spiritual journey and many chose to base themselves in Rishikesh but this certainly does not appeal to us and we will not be coming home in orange robes chanting ‘hare krishna’.
The downtown of Rishikesh is a dirty bustling Indian town and it’s the area known as upper Rishikesh in which travelers will feel right at home in. There are three main areas for finding accommodation. Swarg Ashram is found the furtherest south on the east side of the Ganges and consists of plenty of Hindu temples mixed in with backpacker accommodation and restaurants. A short walk north and many more guesthouses and restaurants are located in Lakshman Jhula, home to many of the typical shops selling Aladdin pants, Tibetan jewelery and trinkets found all over touristy places in India. We decided to stay in the third option, High Bank, which can be found after crossing the pedestrian bridge from Lakshman Jhuala and following the road uphill about 20 minutes. There are a few pleasant budget sleeping options mixed in with a couple travel agencies and restaurants but is much more quiet as vehicles cannot make it up the hill and the vibe tends to be much more laid back as long as you don’t mind the short walk to town.
When it came time to leave we found out our private bus was cancelled due to lack of passengers (high season?) and were forced to muscle our way onto another government bus for the 7hr trip to Delhi.
Checked this site today. So awesome so jealous. Take care have a good holiday
I cannot even begint to imagine being crammed into a bus load of people for seven hours. I’m having a panic attack even thinking about it.
Rishikesh sounds like a really laid back place, which i’m sure you guys were glad about, much needed quite time.
The picture of the bearded one is something else.
Looking forward to hearing all about Delhi.
Maureen
I love reading your blog. You make everything sound so interesting with great detail. I too am jealous. Enjoy your trip and Merry Christmas to you both.
I was told I posted this under the wrong date so I copied and pasted here for you.. What do I know about computers im lucky I made it this far
Hey guys I hope you’re having a great time on your trip. Sometimes it seems like we are there with you as Rick and I take a few minutes every day to check your updates and talk about all the crazy things you two are experiencing. I just wanted to wish you both a Very Merry Christmas. I wouldn’t know but im guessing the holiday season is very different on the other side of the world as well it may not feel as festive being away from home. I hope you can find a small piece of mistletoe to stand under too keep the Christmas spirit alive and im sure Santa will leave a few things at home for you to open when you return. Best of Wishes and be good. Lol Vito
Hey guys,
Thanks for the comments and Merry Christmas!
Vito don’t make me doubt your computer abilities!
Thanks for the advice… I will be on the hunt for some mistletoe, though we might need to settle on a palm tree. It is quite different being literally on the other side of the world for Christmas and it’s not something we will be doing every year, but it’s definitely nice not to have to worry about all the snow I hear you guys are getting!
Hey Lianna and Nick
Hope you guys are having a great time!! Enjoy the hot weather and MERRY CHRISTMAS
xoxox
Bianca
Hi Lianna and Nick wow i can see you guys are having an amazing time i know i don’t always comment but i have been checking it out, I just wanted to say Merry Christmas and you guys are sooooooo lucky to be away from the snow, Love you both and i will be thinking of you when eating our Christmas dinner, Listen don’t be too sad, because i guarantee you this time next year you will be crying to go back, so have a wonderful day and try find a bit of ham and turkey some where even if it is still running around xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Hey Lianna and Nick.
Looks like you guys are having a great time!
Have a fabulous Christmas! xox
Merry Christmas Lianna and Nick. and a Very Happy New Year. Hope that whereever you are you are comfortable and enjoying the moment. we’ve dodged a winter storm here in Port Stanley but I hear it is much worse east of us. Its just the usual stuff-rain sleet ice snow. I’m sure it is warmer where you are-at least I hope so. Take care of yourselves. Roman
Thanks everyone hope you all had a Merry Christmas! and Margaret we do have some ham running around in our back garden that is starting to look a little tasty…but it’s mum is a little aggresive!
Haay lianna and nick
so you guys are lucky. I posted this on a different blog by a mistake. Well I know it’s a day late but merry Christmas. Hope it was a good one !
it’s ailish iain and James
hope you guys are having a wonderful time. We are here in Canada with about a foot of snow
-xoxoxoxox ailish iain and James
keep the RISHIKESH which is the holy foot of HIMALAYA clean.
Best and suitable place for pray the goddess GANGA daily.
I was in RISHIKESH from 15th March 2010 to 18th March 2010.
It was very pleasant for me.
B. MADHAVAN