Hindustan Zinabad!

We boarded yet another train this time in Delhi, and after falling asleep, we woke up the following morning just outside our destination, Amritsar.

Amritsar is in the state of Punjab and is home to the Sikh’s most important religious site, the Golden Temple. Not long after unpacking our bags we decided to have a look around the temple grounds. After 4 weeks in Hindu India and not being allowed to enter most Hindu temples it was nice to visit a temple open to foreigners. A few requirements must be followed before entering, women and men must cover their head with a scarf and hands and feet must be washed in a public basin before entering.

Not being huge temple fans we were not expecting the Golden Temple to leave us breathless, but it does. The view as you enter the temple grounds is mesmerizing with the Golden Temple shimmering in the sunlight surrounded by the Pool of Nectar which the devout bathe in. Foreigner’s can even enter the main temple where musicians and singers are reciting spiritual songs 24 hours a day.

Sikhism is so inclusive, pilgrims as well as backpackers can stay at the temple complex but with a max of three nights. Meals are served to the masses in the community kitchen and we joined the pilgrims for a quick lunch of simple daal and chapati for free although its customary to make a donation.

The second half of our day started when we boarded a shared taxi with about 7 other Indian tourists to the Pakistan boarder. The Indian-Pakistan boarder is like no other I know of. Every evening before sunset crowds gather on both sides for the theatrics of closing the gates and taking the flags down. Both sides are perfectly choreographed with macho stomping and intimidating stares from the soldiers while the spectators go absolutely insane screaming “HINDUSTAN ZINABAD” (Long live India) and waving giant Indian flags. The Pakistani reciprocate with “PAKISTAN ZINABAD” and after about a ½ hour of this back and forth the gates slam shut and the boarder is closed for the day.

Its amazing that two countries who are involved in an all-out war over a boarder in Kashmir, can put together such a comical routine.

The atmosphere is similar to a large sporting event complete with a MC to get the crowd even more energized. It was a completely unique experience and cost us only 75 rs each for the trip with our nutty cab driver who continually wanted me to dance to Punjabi music with him while he drove on both sides of the road.

After we returned from the border it was an authentic Punjabi dinner of Domino’s Pizza. We all have our weaknesses right?

With a full stomach I headed out to take some more photos of the Golden Temple shimmering in the moonlight. The temple is even more magical at night with less people and zero tourists. Sikh families are spread out among the complex basking in the peaceful atmosphere praying and socializing while the chaos of Amritsar goes on outside. Constantly the subject of interest, I entertained a family of boys on pilgrimage with the usual questions a foreigner is asked in India before heading back to the room to retire for the night.