A city without shame or remorse, perched on the ghats which enter the great Ganges river lies Varanasi. Mecca or Jerusalem for the Hindu universe, it is here all Hindus wish to die before being cremated at one of the two burning ghats. Once ones ashes are thrown into the Ganga, (or Ganges) their spirit becomes free from the cycle of rebirth. Pregnant women, children, holy men or cows need not not apply, as they are already pure and enter the river without cremation.
Varanasi is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world with pilgrims coming to take a dip in the Ganges since 10 000 BC. Hindus travel from all over India to this most important city because after bathing in the holy water, one is devoid of sin. Some even take a little water home with them in special vases.
With so many pilgrims, sadhus (holymen) and of course other travelers like ourselves, Varanasi is place with a unique character. But remove your spiritual goggles for even an instant and prepare for a reality check. A stroll on the ghats and prepare for the touts waiting in ambush. Boat men, large hairy masseuses, children selling ceremonial candles and worst of all “Hospice Volunteers” wanting donations for cremation wood which the money then goes into their pockets, all lie in wait for the walking ATM aka foreign tourist to come by. The ghats also pose another threat to walkers. Cow shit lines the ghats and sewage flowing directly into the river drips down in other areas. A flashlight is needed if walking at night due to the constant power outages and multiple obstacles that must be avoided.
The Mother Ganga unfortunately does not fair any better. With tons of raw sewage being pumped into her every day its amazing the river still supports any life at all and the people who bathe in her waters do not become poisoned. Rotting corpses and cows floating downstream couldn’t help environmental matters either.
Negatives aside, a boat trip at sunrise offers a glimpse into the Hindu world where most of the people come to their appropriate ghats and perform puja or prayer. From rich to poor, all forms of people start the day with a dip in the Ganges. The riverside also becomes a home gym for some doing their morning exercises or just a place to catch up with old friends. One of the stranger sights we saw was a laughing party where people gather to simply, laugh because it feels good.
An evening boat trip provides a completely different experience although we did not do this, we attended the evening puja at Dasaswamedh ghat, where the boats simply collect in front of the ghat. The puja ceremony begins every night at 7pm and consists of music and religious dancing with fire at three separate places along the river, each slightly different than the other. Little kids sell offerings of flowers and candle in a bowl which is then lit and floated down the river for the health of ones family. Everyone can sleep easy because we both did this.
Although exhausting at times Varanasi is a place I had wanted to visit for a long time and is really an important part of any India itinerary and would be a shame to miss. We are glad to have came, although Lianna is in no rush to
come back.
What an intersting read – thanks for the candle for good health. That laughing party sounds like a good idea – we’ll have to try it when you get back so I’ll start practising now – Ann
I’m with Lianna- doesn’t sound like my kind of place, but like Ann thanks for the candle. Roman