Sleeping Under a Giant
by Nick
Today began with the four of us loading our rucksacks into the Landcrusier for the long journey towards Mt. Everest Base Camp.
After departing from Shigatse, Tibet’s second biggest city, we drove for approximately 4hrs until we reached Sakya Monastery. This monastery was significant due to the fact that it is the oldest monastery in Tibet and survived the Cultural Revolution. The monastery follows the Tantric sect so over the next hour we wondered around the various dark and grim chapels full of protector deities and more chanting monks.
Once back on the road our drive was full of magnificent scenery. As we approached the Himalaya everything turned to high altitude desert where nothing seemed to subsist except for some nomadic families and their yaks. We crossed some extremely high passes including one which was 5248 metres high, that’s higher than any mountain peak in North America excluding Alaska! Passing by some more small village outposts we came to our lunch stop where we were informed by our guide that we would be arriving at Everest Base Camp in the dark.
The road to Everest diverts off the newly paved Friendship highway near the town of Tingri and turns into a awful gravel trail which seems to turn into nothing at all. Our first views came as we stopped for a rest and Everest could be seen forcing its way into the sky. Some snotty nose children came running up to have a look at the foreigners and hopefully sell some of the fossils they had collected in a large bag. The children’s hands and faces were severely weathered like that of the elderly and its clear that this land takes its toll on those who live here.
Our Landcruiser continued to bounce its way up and down mountains and streams for another 2 hrs or so before coming across another vehicle which had some bad news for us. The monastery had been booked up and the only other option for staying in their area was a overpriced upscale hotel which was out of budget for our group and vacancy was unknown. The news was upsetting to our group who now had to face the reality that we might have to turn back without getting an up close view of Everest which we had traveled all this way to see. Our decision was made to carry on to base camp and deal with consequences when we got there.
The light was fleeting fast and when we arrived, Everest could still be made out due to its purple hue from the setting sun. Some pictures were snapped and we were crossing our fingers that we wouldn’t have to sleep in the car at 5200 meters elevation. The staff at the hotel agreed to let us sleep in the restaurant but at a non discounted rate as I’m sure they knew we didn’t have much of an option. Once the 60 or so guests finally left the room, our group set up for a nights sleep in the restaurant and planned to wake up early for sunrise.
Mike and Martin were up first as they had planned to walk the 7km to Base camp in the dark but Lianna and I woke up a little later opting to take the easier option of driving just in time for sunrise. The morning was frigid and as the the wind howled our fingers froze trying to take pictures of the iconic mountain but was worth the pain to view such an amazing site. Strangely the 60 or so other guests who occupied the other rooms were no were to be seen. Once the Chinese military guard arrived we were allowed to get just a little bit closer to the giant and got to hang the prayer flags we had purchased in Lhasa just for this purpose. Once we couldn’t stay outside any longer it was time to tuck in for tea and pancakes in the lodge where we had slept that night before then a bid farewell to the tallest mountain in the world.
Our next day was planned to drive to the border and cross into Nepal early the next day.
Those poor kids, I’d love to give them a box of Puffs! Lianna must have looked so strange to them – and so clean. I hope you didn’t forget to pray for me Nick – And Everest! – wish I was there – Ann
I remember watching a movie years and years ago,it could have been 25 years(before both of you were even born). It was called, I think, “The Lost Horizon, In Search for Shangri-la”. It was since then I developed a great interest in Tibet, Tibetan Buddhism, and the Dali Lama. He lives in exile in Napel, maybe you could call in and see him, I see you are dropping in to India. I’m sure all those years ago, the movie makers never thought for a second that years later you people would be trekking across their Shangri-la.
Wow Nick, Those pictures are really great! I love reading your blog, what an awesome experience to travel and share with your friends and family. Keep em coming.
Hi Maureen,
There are a lot of Tibetan refugees here in Nepal but the Dalai Lama actually lives in Mcleod Ganj in Northern India so we wont be dropping by.
I read the book Lost Horizon and it helped to spawn my interest in the Tibetan areas as well but what I remember reading somewhere that the true Shangri La is Ya Ding in Sichuan, China. They actually named a town Shangri La in hopes to bring in tourism.
Im glad our blog and photos can give everyone a glimpse of far away places you are interested in seeing.
Nick
Hi Nick & Lianna. the tales of your trip coninue to amaze. Some rules are emerging.
1 Don’t eat the chicken.
2 Don’t swim with the crocs
3 Don’t trust immigration staff.
As a by the by – did you ever get your 30.00 back?
Roman
hey there!
amazing descriptions and stunning pictures
I’m planning my trip to Tibet …I was wondering whether you could give me some info about altitudi sickness….
I’m a bit scared because my blood pressure is quite low although I’m in good heatl.
could you spare a couple of words please :=)
thanks in advance!
No unfortunately not. We went back twice to the office and because the money wasnt there they could only credit us if we wanted to extend our visas which we didnt.
Theres lots of info around about Altitude Sickness (AMS) on the net but I’ll share some of what I know being that I come from a medical backround.
It can effect anyone young or old, healthy or unhealthy and its not certain what predisposes people to get sick. Most people notice some physical change when at altitude such as difficulty sleeping,headache,fatigue but it’s when the symptoms progress to difficulty breathing,vomitting, intense headahce, decreased mental status/ Level of conciousness that things become extremely serious.
The only real cure is to descend quickly which will probably help most mild symptoms but some people take Diamox, a medication which will slow the onset of symptoms. Ask your Doctor if you think you want this but neither Lianna or I took this medication while in Tibet. Itineraries are generally planned with a safe approach to altitude but if you are coming from Kathmandu to Lhasa the altitude gain is so intense you may have problems. Also flying directly into a high altitude city is generally not as good as taking a train or bus because you have no time to acclimatise. Flying into Cusco, Peru we both felt like we had been hit by a truck and our first day was spent lying down but when we took the train from Xining to Lhasa other than some mild headache we were fine.
I hope this helps but if you are concerned you should a book an appointment with your Doctor, Cheers,
Hi Nick!
thanks so much for your answer.. I’ve read a lot about Altitude sickness on th enet myself, but I wanted to hear something from sombody that had experienced it live!
The agency I’m in contact with said it’s better to fly in Tibet and take the train OUT to Xining….because it’s easier and better for papers, so here comes my next question: did you have any issue to get into Tibet by train?
Thanks again for being so kind
Larissa
This site is totally cool. Makes me wanna go on a huge trip.
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