Snow Lions, Tiger Riding Gurus and an Infamous Tariff – and Why It’s Worth It!
With laws prohibiting smoking, billboards, plastic bags, traffic lights, the support of Gross National Happiness over Gross National Product, Bhutan is unlike any other nation. It’s uniqueness coupled with superb Himalayan trekking, authentic Buddhist culture, and astonishing bio-diversity, it is surprising that Bhutan sees less than 20,000 tourists a year. This is because like all other aspects of the nation, Bhutan has a different way of doing things.
The Tariff
To enter Bhutan there is a 200 USD a day minimum and an extra 40 USD a day if traveling solo. OUCH! This is enough to deter your average budget minded solo traveler but is not simply a fee paid for nothing in return. If you can stomach the tariff, it buys your accommodation, food, driver, guide and all entrance fees to temples/tourists sites or treks you might do. There is a lower rate for travel during the off season as well. All tour companies are roughly the same cost and must be licensed by the government to ensure quality service. Hotels are generally of the three star variety which would suit most backpackers just fine.
During my two weeks in Bhutan I met just one other 20 something traveller. With such a high price tag attached, most travellers are well into their 60’s and sticking to the usual West to Central Bhutan, in the more upscale accommodation options. This leaves vast expanses completely empty of adventurous backpackers and allows for some real exploring to be done if you can live like the locals. Homestays tend to be unfabricated with intimate contact with locals who seem genuinely interested in young foreign travelers. I stayed with 3 families throughout my time and the more remote the farm house the warmer the experience. In the remote Bumthang valley
I stayed with one family who had only met one westerner before myself. Their hospitality will never be forgotten. Most tour companies can easily set up these experiences and you may end up having dinner at your guides relatives home if your lucky.
“What is your favourite Jack Johnson song?”
As a young traveler you will be responsible for endless questions on Western pop culture as well as an ambassador for what’s “cool” in the west. This is amazing way to connect with the youth of Bhutan who will be fascinated by anything you can tell them about your life back home. The older Bhutanese will be just as intrigued as to why a young westerner has ventured into their country.
With Democracy coming to this small nation, the future is uncertain as to what Bhutan will become. While it might not be the place for multiple months of backpacking, it is impossible to put a price tag on visiting a completely unique land different than anything you may have seen.
I always wanted to visit Bhutan, but the fees is too expensive, USD200++/day. Great you been there!!!
interesting findings there. i liked reading your blog
Great post! Which tour operator did you use? Also where in the Bumthang valley did you do the homestay? Planning our trip to Bhutan now.
Thanks!
Ari Blum
Thanks Ari! I used Blue Poppy Tours which is a Bhuantanese/English couple who live in Thimpu. They were awesome and i couldn’t recommend them enough. I believe the village was just outside of Ngang Lhakhang on the Bumthang Cultural Trek. Your going to have a great time in Bhutan!
Hi Nick,
Great story! I am planning to go as well via a local operator known by friends (mid november 09). Want to do backpacking as well as a 40up traveller(48 single woman ; ) Problem might be the hight as I have astma. What can you recommend and how did you arrange everything beforehand with the tour operator (also the flights? – I am planning to go from Kathmandu and back to Bangkok)
Thanks for your reply!
Pink from Amsterdam
Hi Pink,
The only airline which flies into Bhutan is Druk Air which leaves from Katmandu or Bangkok. There is a flight from Katmandu every other day and a flight from Bangkok the opposite days. Try to sit on the right side of the plane when you leave KTM and you will see Mt Everest and some other 8,000 plus meter mountains. The only way you can book tickets is to have a Tour company organize your visa and once you have that, you can book a flight. Contact your tour company and they should provide the information for obtaining a Visa and could surely recommend some treks/itineraries. I did the Bumthang Cultural Trek which does not reach a very high altitude <4000m and is 3 days long. Its a great trek through gorgeous forest and villages but is not the trek to take if you are looking for high mountain views as you are surrounded by trees most of the way. Have a look at my photostream on flickr for pics.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12319981@N02/sets/72157615872507515/
hi nick
iam planing to go to bhutan in september.could you tell me how did you arrange to stay with the family,did you do that before hand or while you where there?also did you chosse your accomodation or did the agency choose it for you?is there anything in particular you recomend me to do? i also going to bumthang.thank you so much for your time
kind regards
esti
Hi Esti,
It’s best to arrange the homestays in advance through your tour company as they will have those connections but once you are with your guide/driver you can ask them about any further opportunities for spending time with locals. When a hotel was booked up I explained I was fine staying in a farm house and got the opportunity for an extra homestay in Gangte area. I would recommend that you make it clear to your guide what kind of trip you are looking for. I did not enjoy the touristy resort dinners of the restaurants (mainly because I was by myself and in a different age bracket than other tourists) so my Guide and I would normally go out for beers and momos instead at a local spot which is a much more enjoyable experience but might not be within everyones comfort zone. Oh and watch out for the chillies
Am Dutch guy = Going solo to Nepal next week, arrival 21st October in Kathmandu.
Will do trek in Langtang Area about 2-3 weeks, want to visit Bhutan after that. Anyone here who has similar plans?
Pink – are you still going?
After Nepal – Bhutan will spend the winter in Malaysia and Thailand
Rene,
Am going to Bhutan mid to late Nov. Going to India first, and will probably go overland from India via Phuntosling. Am female n will be going with my sister. If you or anyone else is interested msg me at vaahan@yahoo.com. Havent made all arrangements and wouldnt mind joining a couple of people so can avoid the $40 tarrif.
Haaaay lianna
it’s ailish james and iain your little cousins here in Canada
hope you and Nick are having a wonderful time ! And lucky you two are we’ve got atleast a foot or more of snow here in Barrie
well I was just commenting to say Merry Christmas and a happy new year
-xoxoxoxox ailish James and iain
Hey guys thanks for the Holiday wishes! Hope you had a great day and Happy New Year to you as well.
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